Sam ?e tale vreme bo treba porihtat, pa gremo.
Razmere v Droites
Tele IGESove slicice so kar zgovorne, zal pa se ne skladajo s sobotno napovedjo ARSO (za Slovenijo). Ce si jih jaz prav razlagam, naj bi bilo v soboto v Sloveniji suho, padavine naj bi bile sele v nedeljo. Medtem ko na ARSO pravijo, da bo na zahodu ze v soboto dopoldne dezevalo. Komu verjeti?
LP
Rado
LP
Rado
?e nekaj o z OHM Chamonix http://www.ohm-chamonix.com/HIV/OHMCourListe.php
Glede na tale prispevek in ?e enega o ?vicarski, kjer tudi omenjajo ?rn led, se mi zdi, da so letos v S steni Droites in Courtes precej slab?e razmere kot so bile npr. dve pomladi nazaj, ko se je celo La Ginat odpikalo po sorazmerno debelem ledu ...
2/04/2005
Mt Blanc
Les Droites
Auteur: Adam/Raini, Kovacs
La Ginat
Descente: Couloir S
Conditions météo:
Exellent weather and not too cold ( -10° 3800m)
Conditions d'évolution:
First 200-250m over snow covered slabs (entrance to the left of the classic n face-there´s no route drawn there in the topo) 70° continuosly with several steeper places and no protection but nice to climb. middle snow field in exellent conditions c60-65°, hard neve no ice. upper 440m with hard ice ,mixed and some drytooling. very demanding but variable and fantastic climbing. found only to pieces of fixed gear on the whole route. used no pitons neither friends. in any case take only small sized ones but many slings and short ice screws. last 100m very deep snow. take enough gear to make 10-12 rappels we only found 2 belay stations!! take extra pick for ice-axe to climb the hard ice pitch after the mix.
Commentaires:
17 hours in the route. start at 3 in the night and topping out a little after 8 in the evening. all in all 26+ hours with approach and descent to the talefre hut.
Glede na tale prispevek in ?e enega o ?vicarski, kjer tudi omenjajo ?rn led, se mi zdi, da so letos v S steni Droites in Courtes precej slab?e razmere kot so bile npr. dve pomladi nazaj, ko se je celo La Ginat odpikalo po sorazmerno debelem ledu ...
2/04/2005
Mt Blanc
Les Droites
Auteur: Adam/Raini, Kovacs
La Ginat
Descente: Couloir S
Conditions météo:
Exellent weather and not too cold ( -10° 3800m)
Conditions d'évolution:
First 200-250m over snow covered slabs (entrance to the left of the classic n face-there´s no route drawn there in the topo) 70° continuosly with several steeper places and no protection but nice to climb. middle snow field in exellent conditions c60-65°, hard neve no ice. upper 440m with hard ice ,mixed and some drytooling. very demanding but variable and fantastic climbing. found only to pieces of fixed gear on the whole route. used no pitons neither friends. in any case take only small sized ones but many slings and short ice screws. last 100m very deep snow. take enough gear to make 10-12 rappels we only found 2 belay stations!! take extra pick for ice-axe to climb the hard ice pitch after the mix.
Commentaires:
17 hours in the route. start at 3 in the night and topping out a little after 8 in the evening. all in all 26+ hours with approach and descent to the talefre hut.
Never ever give up!!