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Alpinistični odsek PD Ljubljana Matica Seznam forumov » Alpinistični vzponi » Igličeva or “Should I bi(t)č(h) you?”
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Igličeva or “Should I bi(t)č(h) you?”
PrispevekObjavljeno: Sob Jul 13, 2019 2:23 pm Odgovori s citatom
Pridružen/-aTor Nov 2018 17:37
KrajYana Bilynets

Last weekend was the first trip of our NAŠ, where we were supposed to climb independently on unequipped routes under the supervision of the instructor to get a feeling of what it looks like to climb in real mountains. We agreed to climb together with Barbara, and after arrival to Logarski Kot Marko joined us as an instructor. Marko suggested to try Igličeva on Mala Rinka, which was a bit too difficult, but we agreed that I would try easier parts, and Marko would lead all those complicated pitches. Barbara’s shoulder was still injured, so she would climb as a second.

We started at 7:45 after a good breakfast and short ride to the parking. I was a bit too optimistic with the approach time - 50 mins according to the guidebook turned into 2+ hours of walk, because I missed the fact that the guidebook gives directions from the hut above. However we have found the beginning of the route quite easily, good people (Anej and Ante) gave us printout with the picture of the mountain where it was nicely marked. On the route, there was a lot of old pitons left, which was also helpful for finding the right way. Marko led first pitches, I took over once we came to 3rd pitch. Having little experience in leading, even with pitons it took me some time to understand, where to go, but finally, I saw some old bolts in the wall, which looked like it used to be an anchor there, but they seemed to be too much to the right from the mapped route. A bit higher, there was another anchor with a red rope that was bright like a flag, so I decided to anchor there. I needed additional point, so tried to put a piton, but there was no good place for it nearby - rock was either fragile or cracks too shallow. After a few unsuccessful attempts, I found a crack for a friend. When Marko and Barbara joined me and we continued, there was an original anchor with 2 pitons just a few metres above.

Marko led the rest of the route. There were two difficult parts - a little overhang marked as V and slabs V+ which we climbed as an alternative to avoid the wet and muddy chimney (“Če nismo dobre plezalce, smo esteti”).
A few pitches before the top it looked like if I would lead again, we had high chances to miss the dinner, so we collectively decided to let Marko lead it all the way up. A few more nice slabs and rolling stones and we reached the end of the route, had a short detour to the mountain top to catch the rays of the sunset and headed down.

To sum up: a nice route, especially for climbing as a second Cool but a lot of falling rocks, we were lucky not to have anyone climbing above. 350 m, 11 pitches, 7 hours on the route, 5 Frutabele, 3 litres of water for 3 people, 1 gams, great company, trpžlivost, many bičevih and no bitčhing Smile

The first lead, pic by Marko:

Previs, pic by Barbara:

Before the slabs, varianta "estet"



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Igličeva or “Should I bi(t)č(h) you?”
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